Mallorca offers so much more than sun, sand and sangria as 33 members of the Friends of Kettle’s Yard discovered on their recent six day art odyssey to the island that has inspired countless artists including Kettle’s Yard collection artist Joan Miró. The Friends were based at a comfortable modern hotel on the edge of Palma’s rambling old town. Welcome drinks at the rooftop Sky Bar overlooking the city were a perfect way to launch the trip.
After a private tour of Es Baluard, the city’s impressive contemporary art collection housed in a converted fort overlooking the harbour, day two saw a guided walk through the city’s narrow streets and tree-lined avenues dotted with Art Deco buildings. Dominating the skyline is the magnificent Gothic cathedral, an entire side chapel given over to a challenging artwork in cracked ceramic by contemporary Spanish artist Miquel Barceló. Visits were made to Palma’s art and architectural gems including the Juan March Foundation, which provided a fascinating introduction to 20th and 21st century Spanish art, which the Friends agreed deserves to be far better known. Another highlight was a private tour of the Joan Miró Foundation gallery and studios, which offered fascinating insights into the artist’s imagination and creative process.
Beyond Palma, excursions were made by coach to the towns of Andratx, Sóller and further afield to Alcúdia. In all three locations, we explored modern and contemporary art assembled by European and local collectors keen to share their passion with the public. At the Centre for Contemporary Art in Andratx, housed in a stunning Moorish-style complex, one Friend was particularly taken by his first encounter with the work of German artist Marcus Tollman. He described it as “a wonderful mash up of Picasso and Kandinsky. Quite breathtaking intensity and startling use of colour.” In the attractive (if crowded!) town of Sóller, we escaped to tranquil Can Prunera, a stylish Art Deco mansion with a fine art collection including works by Miró, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Paul Klee. Sóller also delivered a delightful surprise. In the unlikely setting of the local railway station, two small museums were to be found, one containing a collection of Picasso ceramics and the other, works by Miró assembled by a former railway employee with great artistic judgement.
Our furthest destination was reached by coach, passing through rugged mountain scenery to the island’s north eastern tip. Beyond Alcúdia lies the Moorish fantasy ‘castle’ of Sa Bassa Blanca perched above the coast, with its richly eclectic collection of 20th and 21st century European art, as well as objects from Africa and Australia. The gleaming, white-stuccoed house is set in an extensive estate complete with sculpture park and subterranean art galleries. Among the collection are portraits of children through the ages and a James Turrell reflective space.
For Friends on our overseas trips, satisfying the palate can be as important as pleasing the eye and Palma has some great restaurants renowned for their tapas and authentic cuisine. For many, the gastronomic highlight was the group dinner held at the Mambo restaurant. The chocolate bombe dessert was a piece of performance art delivered to each table with great panache in true Jackson Pollock style! There was also time for relaxation and individual exploration of the labyrinthine old town with its stylish independent shops. For some, a chance to cool off in the pool on the hotel roof and soak up the October sun was all part of the holiday experience, a perfect complement to the week’s exciting artistic encounters.
Mallorca was the eighth overseas trip for the Friends, organised by volunteers Louisa Riley-Smith and Martin Thompson. Keep a look out for details of a trip to Oslo, Norway in September 2025!
A selection of feedback from the trip:
Thank you so much for bringing about this holiday visit to Mallorca and especially for the huge amount of effort you both put into making sure we got a copious amount of art, artists’ studios, hospitality, advice, inclusion and welfare of the group – all of this plus your own enthusiasm.
Wow!! What an amazing trip you put together for us all. So well organised and beautifully curated. We are still reeling from the joy of seeing interesting things, tasting delicious food, being in delightful company and having stimulating and amusing conversations.
